new york in winter part five

from here we strolled back down along the eastern edge of the park. it was almost time for dinner in midtown. our final destination was l'atelier de joel robuchon in the four seasons hotel. this is one of a small string of these restaurants across the globe, designed to offer a less formal setting in which to partake in this legendary chef's craft. centered around a pearwood counter seating twenty guests at high stools overlooking the kitchen, it is a beautiful room across from the bar of the hotel. after a slight misstep on the part of the hostess, we were shown to our seats at the counter and greeted warmly by our waiter.

the visible kitchen is mostly for show and is decorated with stunning arrangements of fruits and vegetables in glass vases and bowls. it is done up in black lacquer with red accents, everything polished to a high gloss. the blond wood of the counter is set with black rubber placemats, red water glasses, signature chargers and futuristic silverware.

we decided that a series of small plates was the way to go, rather than traditional appetizers and entrees. we wanted to be able to taste as many different things as possible--plus the fact that we had already had a good-sized lunch. our amuse-bouche was once again a verrine, this time layered with foie gras and port gelee. the bread basket proffered wheat rolls, black olive focaccia and the most perfect miniature baguettes imaginable.

the first plate was a tower of roasted slices of zucchini, japanese eggplant and tomato, layered with buffalo milk mozzarella. this was dressed with a summery little basil sauce. nothing spectacular here (i.e. no luxury ingredients), but the elements were all perfectly cooked and seasoned and clearly assembled with great care. next we were presented with a gold leafed charger onto which had been lain a geometric oblong of smoked foie gras and lightly caramelized eel. atop this had been showered shavings of black truffle, while the plate was decorated with precise lines of finely ground pepper and and dollops of cream.

we had both wanted to taste the langoustine, but had only ordered one serving, figuring we would just split it. the kitchen generously sent a second plate of it, much to our surprise. i tasted mine first, biting through the incredibly thin shell and the basil leaf beneath it, into the sweetness of the shellfish's flesh. it was simply astounding! i resisted the temptation to slap drew and cry out, "this is the best thing i have ever eaten!" i just sighed and stopped to savor the experience instead. moments later, i was smacked out of my reverie by drew, having the exact same reaction. this dish was truly transporting....unlike anything i have ever eaten in my forty-some years. the only garnish was a dab of intensely colored basil puree, and even that seemed superfluous.

what followed was a plate of classic vitello tonnato. the paperthin slices of veal were rosy pink and fork tender, napped with a luxurious, creamy tuna sauce and sprinkled with a few pearls of capers. the rim of the plate held a lightly dressed half of a baby romaine heart, which offered the textural contrast needed to make this plate of richness not seem overwhelming. we also tasted an onion tart, the base of which was the just the barest whisper of crisp puff pastry. topped with meltingly sweet onions, tomatoes and some fresh field greens, it also benefited from a dusting of black truffle shavings.

the plates cleared away, the silverware removed and our placemats wiped down, we were ready to think about dessert. we started with a complimentary pre-dessert of grapefruit gelee, a fresh raspberry and lychee syrup. then we were given another complimentary plate with a nage of fresh fruits, all cut into the tiniest, most perfect dice imaginable and plated with lemongrass broth and a scoop of basil lime sorbet.

next came the desserts we had actually ordered...bracingly sour pink grapefruit supremes, garnished mint sorbet, two different creams, lemon foam, cubes of elderflower gelee and a shard of frosted sugar-glass inlaid with sliced almonds. it was absolutely stunning to look at and even more rewarding to taste. the other dessert was a warm souffle of yuzu plated with a quenelle of raspberry sorbet. as in the case of the the vegetables and the langoustine, there was nothing inherently special about this dish. it was in the execution and presentation that we glimpsed perfection.

we lingered with the last drops of wine (an outstanding 2001 chateauneuf du pape) and our cups of coffee, which were presented along with a caramel and seasalt filled chocolate. the sadness at being at the end of this meal (and the end of my visit) was mitigated by the knowledge that this one would rise into the pantheon of some of my best meals.

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new york in winter part four

fast forward to the next morning (mostly because after all that wine, i barely remember hailing a cab) and our lunch at jean-georges in the trump international hotel. set on the ground floor of the building, in a high, bright space with tall windows, the room is an oasis of calm in the frantic setting of columbus circle. the lunch menu is set up in an unusual format: the dishes are all in one long list (apps, soups, salads, fish and meat) and diners choose any two dishes from that list for a fixed price. additional plates may be ordered at a nominal extra cost. desserts are on a separate menu. we chose to stick to just a simple, three course lunch with a half-bottle of wine.

our amuse-bouche was actually a trio here. a soup spoon holding a softly poached quail egg with shaved asparagus; caramelized grapefruit with shaved pecorino; and a tiny verrine of bacon broth with a slice of radish. these tastes seemed to speak strongly of winter, while offering a hopeful hint of spring. the breads were absolutely outstanding as well, and included sourdough rolls and thick slices of country rye. the butter was served under a tiny silver bell, with a separate little mound of sea salt to be added at our discretion.

our starters included a luxurious butternut squash soup, gently poured tableside into a beautiful square bowl whose interior had been arranged with a landscape of diced roasted squash, black trumpet mushrooms and delicate green sprouts. the other choice was a dark green salad of roasted brussel sprouts, avocado and pistachios in a mustard vinaigrette, garnished with a few perfect leaves of arugula.

next came our entrees, beginning with a boned, lightly smoked quail garnished with asian apple pear and candied tamarind. the other dish was a pair of sweetbread "lollipops," where the meat had been lightly floured and sauteed, and then speared with a "handle" of licorice root. this was served alongside a smear of meyer lemon puree and a meltingly tender grilled pear half.

we asked for a visit from the cheese board to finish the savory part of our experience. from the two dozen or so options, we chose a stunningly ripe and rich epoisses; a fragrant, unctuous delice de bourgogne; and a hard sheep's milk cheese from spain with a drier texture, whose name was one of those unpronounceable combinations of too many consonants and not enough vowels that trips up even the most well-versed polyglot. these three cheeses were served lightly toasted walnut raisin bread, pecan halves and a dried fruit jam.

now we were ready for something sweet. the desserts were all two-part affairs...we chose the citrus and chocolate versions. the first was a bowl with grapefruit supremes, candied tangerine peel, shredded jicama "noodles" and a citrus broth, over which was spooned a drift of limoncello granita; flanked by a miniature chocolate poppyseed cake with a spoonful of meyer lemon curd and a dusting of halvah powder. the chocolate plate featured the chef's molten-centered chocolate cake with vanilla bean ice cream, paired with a teeny-tiny panini made from chocolate brioche slices, taleggio cheese, a bit of black olive and a drizzle of gianduja. while the first part of this pairing has become a cliche, it was rewarding to eat the original version that has spawned so many, many, many imitations. the chocolate sandwich that accompanied it was a revelation...one that i hope goes on to become as ubiquitous as its partner.

we were then offered coffee and the most adorable plate of mignardises, including peanut butter and jelly chocolates and wee little macaroons, which we had packed up to go. we were also offered homemade marshmallows, cut dramatically from a glass serving jar at the table.

we left the restaurant and walked up through central park, nothing the many thousands of daffodils poking through the dead leaf cover from last autumn. ultimately, we made our way to the metropolitan museum of art. with no real purpose in mind, we spent time in the newly re-opened greek and roman sculpture gallery first. the sheer number of works is astonishing, especially when you consider how old all of these objects really are. we sailed through the impressionists and the modern rooms, ending our brief visit back in the main lobby, which is an amazing space all on its own.

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new york in winter part three

our next reservation was deep in the lower east side. we found ourselves at the restaurant with loads of time to spare. walking back west a bit, we stumbled across the newly opened hot spot allen and delancey. we shook off the rain and settled into the bar for a cocktail. drew had his usual knob creek and i was introduced to my new friend, christiana vodka. distilled in norway from trondelag (!) potatoes, it was as smooth as silk. fortified with a bit of liquid courage, we dodged the raindrops and headed out to dinner.

wd-50 was our destination. this is one of the temples of the new "molecular gastronomy," most reverently practiced in spain at el bulli, a spot currently considered to be the best restaurant in the world (if such a designation is possible). the chef/owner here is one wylie dufresne, who along with pastry chef alex stupak, is turning out unusual, quirky, perhaps even whimsical dishes that often barely resemble the ingredients from whence they came. you'll understand as we progress here.

we settled on the 12 course tasting menu along with the wine pairings. we were presented with a basket of paper-thin sesame "bread" to start. after several handfuls of that, we had it removed so as not to fill up on it. the first plate was thin slices of horse mackerel, served raw with mole lentils, cacao nibs and lightly cooked leeks. this was paired with a gruener veltliner sekt brut with a bit of sparkle to it. all in all, not too unusual of a start.

next came a plate of pizza pebbles with pepperoni emulsion and shiitake mushroom chips. this was where we started to worry. while the flavors were interesting enough, and the visual was certainly appropriately confusing (pebbles? they looked like kix cereal), the texture was not great, in that the pizza lodged itself into our molars with the force of cement. drew and i looked at each other warily, knocked back another slug of sekt and hoped for the best.

the next course seemed to see the ship righted again. entitled "knot foie," it was foie gras which has been combined with hydrocolloids (look it up) so as to become a tender ribbon with enough tensile strength to be tied into a loose knot. this was then garnished with kimchee puree, raisin emulsion and crisped rice. visually arresting, it was also downright delicious. this was paired with a ginjo sake from japan's nagano prefecture... it offered the sweetness of the traditional accompaniment of a sauternes.

what followed was a tartare of hamachi, plated with edamame, asian apple-pear, tahini with sake lees and a vibrant grapefruit and shallot marmalade. the fish had been briefly seared before being sliced thin. the wine here was a viognier from oregon, again positing sweetness against the richness of the fish.

the following plate was one of the best of the night. entitled eggs benedict, the presentation looked nothing like you would expect from that moniker. the egg was only the yolk, poached in a plastic tube and deposited on the plate as a "log." speared with a crispy, ultra-thin chip of canadian bacon and served alongside english-muffin-dusted cubes of deed-fried, molten hollandaise, this dish was a resounding success.

a pair of seafood dishes were to follow, begining with a warm crab tail coated with sesame seeds and served with soybean noodles and cinnamon scented dashi. with this was proffered another white wine, a cantinamatta from italy. the acidity in this one really worked well with the richness of the crab.

next came a bowl with cubes of cuttlefish, butternut squash, chamomile and orange, with a brushstroke of toast oil on the inside of the bowl. there was nothing wrong with this dish, but it didn't resonate in the way that some others did that night.

for our final savory course, we were presented with a red wine...a 2005 rhone from france. this was a big, earthy wine that was perfect with our meat dish. thin slices of lamb belly, cooked to a divine crispy/chewy stage, could best be described as lambacon. plated with crispy chickpeas, black hummus and "cherried" cucumber noodles, this dish was another knockout.

well we were really in our cups by this time. we had a cocktail in us, along with 5 small glasses of wine, none of which i had actually finished. this meant a table crowded with glasses and plates. somewhere in the background we heard a cheer go up. shortly thereafter yet ANOTHER glass was placed in front of us. it turns out that as we had been dining, the restaurant received a new review from the new york times, taking it from two stars to three! free sekt all around the house!!!

there was no stopping us now. the pre-dessert was a tube of wintergreen parfait, plated with walnuts, chartreuse gelee, avocado cream and a curlicued walnut tuile. although i am not a fan of wintergreen, this dish really worked for me. there was no wine paired with this, but the extra glass of sekt seemed to go perfectly.

the next dessert was a killer combination of a toasted coconut cake, carob emulsion, smoked cashews and a super browned butter sorbet. this was an amazing plate that i could have easily doubled up on. this was paired with a silky sweet late harvest riesling from new zealand.

then came a ribbon of soft white chocolate on a plate with toasted malt and white beer ice cream. creamy, smooth, unctuous and downright sinful. and served with yet another wine! forgive me please for not having any recollection of that vintage! lastly we were offered coffee and a small plate of petit-fours....chicory ice cream coffee (sort of like a frozen truffle) and a "bag" made from sugar, filled with crunchy chocolate bits.

this meal was certainly one of the most unusual i have ever had. (you can see some other people's pics of the food here.) the service, while less formal than any of the other meals we ate, was topnotch in a friendly, american style that completely won us over. add to that the excitement of the third star and we had a recipe for an outstanding evening. i walked out to the kitchen after we were done to congratulate the chef. he commented to me that coming from cleveland was a long way to travel for dinner. i reminded him that the trip to three stars was a long road as well.

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new york in winter part two

we were up late the next morning, so i dashed out for coffee and some breakfast pastries in the neighborhood. after our usual morning gabfest, we got cleaned up and headed down for a walk around midtown. we took a look at the recently opened new york times building. there is a fascinating installation in the lobby, entitled "moveable type." i could not stop looking at it as it cycled through several incarnations: numbers, words, sentences, maps, etc. it all became strikingly personal when a sentence from frank bruni's review of dovetail popped up on the screen directly in front of the two of us: Did Mr. Fraser need both of those sidekicks for the venison? not only was this about a restaurant we had just visited, but about one of the dishes we had eaten.

at noon, we stopped in to le bernardin for lunch. we had such a great experience at lunch here a couple of years ago that we decided to try it again. after being greeted and seated next to some enormous flower arrangements (the glass vases of which were filled not only with water, but yards and yards of crinkled cellophane!), we finally were able to choose our food. a visit from the sommelier led us to an austrian wine--a gruener veltliner. this varietal is popping up on menus everywhere and it was an excellent accompaniment to our meal.

first to arrive at the table was the restaurant's signature salmon spread with lightly toasted, paper-thin slices of baguette. it is rich and smooth and slightly smoky and is always something to look forward to. Our first courses came shortly thereafter. drew's appetizer was a composed salad of thin sliced salmon carpaccio with a jalapeno emulsion and watercress sprouts, presented with toasted pain de siegle. mine was a warm "crabcake" of peekytoe lump crabmeat topped with shaved cauliflower and ringed by a dijon and creme fraiche sauce. these were both absolutely luscious!

next came the entrees...a delicate piece of codfish, sauteed and served atop a bed of curry lentils, finished with a tandoori broth and a spoonful of yogurt. there was also a perfectly cooked chunk of pan-roasted red snapper, set atop a complex tomato chutney and garnished with miniature pappadums. despite the french name and tone of this establishment, chef eric ripert is clearly embracing more international influences. both of these dishes really sang with flavor.

unable to choose just two desserts, we narrowed it down to three. a thin slice of star anise poached pineapple, topped with a warm almond financier and pineapple buttermilk sorbet; miniature panna cottas, served with a brunoise of tropical fruits; and a vibrantly colored, delicately flavored blood orange sorbet, accompanied by two petits galettes brettonnes. afterwards came our coffee service and a napkin-lined basket of tiny almond madeleines and pistachio financiers. as we got up to leave, it began to rain so we hopped in a cab and headed down to chelsea.

we spent some time at the fashion institute of technology, viewing their show of gowns by the fabled madame gres of paris. it featured more than seventy of the legendary designer's pieces, many of them loaned or donated by some of her most famous clients. they were, and are, just breathtaking.

in keeping with our theme of beauty, we headed across town to the morgan library and museum. housed in j.p. morgan's (formerly) private library on madison avenue, we looked into a pair of shows there that could not have been more different. the first was a collection of renaissance drawings from michelangelo and his contemporaries, on loan from the uffizi in florence. across the hall we viewed a collection of photographs by irving penn. taken over the course of sixty-plus years, they were all of artists and writers and all in black & white. both groupings spoke to us in different ways, but both were simply exquisite.

from here we headed to the east village to check out my old neighborhood. we checked out my old street (barely recognizable!) and the places we used to go to drink, eat and dance. almost all of it is changed over to something else now. without looking at the street signs, i would have been completely lost. we accomplished a bit of shopping, stopped in for a coffee and a piece of cake and then wandered some more.

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new york in winter part one

scheduled on a regional aircraft out of hopkins, i knew before i left for the airport that the plane was less than half full. but i dutifully arrived the full two hours early, checking in and confirming that my flight was on time. once i got through security, i scoped out the gate, only to see that my flight had been delayed by an hour. when i asked, they told me the flight might be cancelled, but if i were willing to run i could catch an earlier flight...AT THE OTHER END OF THE AIRPORT! despite being dressed in my best suit, i dashed through the terminals and made it with seconds to spare.

drew and i stopped first for a glass of wine at cavatappo wine bar, around the corner from his house. then it was off to our first meal, at dovetail on the upper west side. a quick cab ride through central park brought us to the discreet doorway of this relatively new restaurant, created by chef/owner john fraser. after stints at the french laundry in napa valley and at taillevent in paris, he figured it was time to strike out on his own. it was on my radar because despite being open only since december, it had received 3 stars from the new york times last month.

our coats were whisked away and we were seated in a simple, spare room with wooden-topped tables and exposed brick walls. we decided on our food, chose a bottle of wine and we were off! our amuse-bouche that night was in two parts: a chinese soup spoon piled with vodka gelee, caviar and fried capers; alongside it lay a cube of raw tuna rolled in shredded parmigiano-reggiano. this was presented along with the house bread...an insanely delicious warm cheddar cornbread.

our first courses included a deconstructed muffaletta sandwich, (see it here) featuring a slice from a pressed roll of salami, ham and cheese; fried lamb's tongues, caper mayonnaise and slivers of olives and peppers. our next choice was a salad of brussel sprout leaves, serrano ham, pears, manchego and a truffle-laced cauliflower cream, garnished with sunflower seeds. these were both new to us, so they proved to be interesting. we also enjoyed a salad of winter lettuces, starring frisee and raddicchio de treviso, sprinkled with sultanas, hazelnuts and cubes of roasted butternut squash. the hazelnut oil in the sharp vinaigrette brought a bit of warmth the the plate.

our entrees were more familiar, although both of them offered new twists on old favorites. drew chose a loin of venison (yes, i do mean BAMBI) served with sauteed cabbage, chestnuts and a sweet potato puree topped with rosemary marshmallows. my choice was beef two ways: a cut of sirloin, remarkable mostly for being unremarkable, garnished with king trumpet mushrooms and pearl onions and served alongside a small square of housemade pasta layered with meltingly tender shreds of beef cheeks. this "lasagne" was intensely rich and made me long for a larger serving of it as an entree...i could have skipped the steak.

we ordered dessert and coffee, the latter of which, sadly, came first. this was a disappointment and an error in the service, we felt. the desserts were a mixed bag. drew's choice was a peanut butter and chocolate concoction (resembling a kitkat bar) served with frozen milk ( a lean ice cream) and raspberry coulis. it seemed rather pedestrian, especially opposite my choice of a brioche bread pudding topped with bruleed banana and served with buttermilk sorbet and bacon brittle. you read that right...BACON brittle. this really put this dish over the top!

with our check we were given a pair of rather forlorn looking pate de fruits in an odd flavor combination: sour cherry and beet. although we had a gracious server, he was not as familiar with the menu as we would have hoped. all in all, it was a pleasant experience, but we left wondering how they had earned three stars so quickly while other restaurants that had been open for years still struggled to get just two.

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lunch at the museum of modern art

the next day we had lunch at the modern. we arrived a few minutes ahead of our noon reservation, so we took a seat in the bar room to have a cocktail. i selected a caipiroska, the vodka version of the caipirhina. it involves slices of english cucumber, muddled with fresh mint and shaken with hangar one buddha's hand vodka, fresh cucumber and lime juices and a splash of soda. it was quite refreshing on a muggy july day. drew chose a gigondas, following up on our success with the one the night before. after a brief interval, we were shown to a spacious banquette in the dining room. the space overlooks the abby aldrich rockefeller sculpture garden which is currently home to a couple of large curving pieces that are a part of the forty year richard serra retrospective which the museum has on view.

the tabletop accessories in the room are all drawn from pieces in the museum's permanent collection. there are some really beautiful elements here, including the water pitchers and a uniquely shaped sauce spoon. after making our choices from the menu, we were presented with amuse geule of a baby zucchini salad with basil oil, black radish seeds and creme fraiche. it was light and summery and really set a nice tone for the plates to come.

for my first course, i chose a melon salad. there were ribbons of juicy honeydew, crisp balls of watermelon and paperthin discs of charentais melon wrapped around a cloud of creamy chevre to form unctuous little pillows. this was accented with pistachios, oven roasted tomatoes and aged balsamic vinegar. drew's selection was entitled "schupfnudeln with duck rillettes." these were the lightest little potato dumplings tossed with slivers of meltingly tender duck and garnished with sweetgrass. this dish really captured the alsatian roots of the chef, gabriel kreuther.

i inserted a second appetizer, given that my access to dining experiences like this is somewhat limited here in cleveland. i had a slice of sullivan county foie gras, roasted in butter and served with a tart red currant puree and fresh red, white and black currants. there were two little leaves of baby escarole for garnish. this is my favorite way to eat foie gras....hot out of the pan, with a bit of crispy edge to it. this was the single largest piece of this i have ever been served...probably 3 ounces. i was in heaven!

for the entree, drew chose a cocotte of monkfish with morels and asparagus. it was served with a lovely little sauce of vin jaune and cream that was light and rich at the same time. i ordered a long island duck breast crusted with black trumpet marmalade. it was served in four perfect little slices with pickled bing cherries, banyuls-enriched duck jus and a "sandwich" of slices of sauteed daikon radish enclosing a slab of (what else?) foie gras. you read it right...i ate this TWICE in one meal! but the best part of this plate was a little tidbit called "fleischnecke." imagine the thinnest possible sheet of noodle dough, spread with duck rillettes, rolled up jelly roll style, sliced and crisped ever so delicately under the broiler. it was mah-velous.

now it was time for dessert. unable to narrow it down to just two choices, we picked our three faves. a warm tart of poached figs in phyllo was served with fig almond marmalade and olive oil ice cream. a sliver of a dark chocolate tart was plated with a quenelle of chocolate mousse and a perfect sphere of mocha ice cream. the third plate was a warm ricotta flan, layered with tender crepes and finished with stewed red fruits. topped off with a couple of cups of french press coffee, we were stuffed to the gills. but of course then we were served a tray of mignardises and a little porcelain box of chocolates. there were raspberry tuiles, pate de fruits of red and white currant, pistachio financiers topped with a cube of apricot gelee and a tiny pinch of a raspberry almond cooky.

this is a gorgeous room with many interesting materials used in unusual ways. the bar is honed (but not polished) marble. there are curving, milky glass walls lit from the bottom. the end of the room is finished with silk panels that rise up two stories. the black leather banquettes are enhanced with red leather pillows. of course the most striking feature is the wall of glass that overlooks the garden. the presence of these two massive works by serra repeatedly draws your eye outside (even when the woman seated at the next table is none other than annette benning!).

while the food was outstanding and the room was stunning, the service slipped a couple of times. they were minor missteps, to be sure, (an incorrect identification of a garnish; the failure to anticipate our desire for more bread or a second glass of wine) but enough that we commented on them. it made us aware of how little there was to comment on the night before. the most impeccable service is that which you don't even notice: unobtrusive, anticipatory and subtle. when the service you are receiving has you talking about it as you eat, that's not a good thing.

the pictures from my trip are here.

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dinner at per se

we spent the afternoon shopping in midtown manhattan. the bergdorf goodman men's store was our first stop, as i had arrived in the city sans cravat. there were hundreds and hundreds of ties to choose from. i wasn't really seeing anything i liked until i got to the very last table, where i found a lovely cream and grey number by charvet with tiny little paisleys woven into it. we drifted through the rest of the store, fingering $780 shirts and $1340 suits, ultimately deciding that we didn't really need anything else. we then headed down the street to takashimaya. we glided through the fine tabletop and home furnishing sections, as well as the florist's workshop and the tea shop. we lingered as long as possible, dreading our return to the steamy streets.

dressed in suits, re-entering fifth avenue was like stepping into a sauna. businessmen, tourists, shoppers, street vendors, park avenue matrons, security personnel, construction workers, bicycle messengers, taxis, delivery trucks, private cars, limos, and giant black SUVs all combined with the sun and the humidity to make it seem more as though we were swimming through the canyons of the city than walking. we stepped into stores whenever possible and ultimately ended our hike in the king cole bar of the st. regis hotel.

entering through the lobby on 55th street, we made a left and passed through the high, bright space that is the astor court. there were ladies having tea and tourists having their pictures taken across tables scattered with gleaming silver and fine bone china. beyond this lay the sanctuary that is the king cole bar. we settled into a couple of stools at the bar and were greeted by the bartender, gavin. after ordering a gin rickey and a vodka collins, we turned our gaze to the maxfield parrish mural of old king cole which stretches across the entire length of the room. the airconditioning began to seep in, along with the coolness of the drinks, and we felt refreshed. we got to gabbing, bantering with gavin, ordering a second round of cocktails....and suddenly it was time for dinner! we settled the bill and headed across town.

after a few minutes in the frenzy and heat of the street, we entered the time warner center. a quick visit to the whole foods downstairs was our first stop. at 5.30 pm on a tuesday, it was absolute mayhem! it made me grateful that i no longer live (or work!) in manhattan. after the crush of people and a few glances at the breathtakingly high prices, we escalated ourselves upstairs to the oasis of per se. cool, calm and collected....that was my first impression. we were greeted with a serene smile and warm welcome by the reception staff, who offered to take our packages and gently led us to our table overlooking central park. all sense of hurry and worry fell away as we sunk into the soft cushions of the chairs and settled into the luxury of the experience.

the space is all high ceilings and glass, which gives a feeling of openness. coming down the hall from the front desk, there is a salon comprised of several small nooks outfitted with velvet couches and coffeetables on the left and a glass topped bar opposite. past that and to the right awaits the dining room, with a two story high wall of glass overlooking columbus circle and the park. the diner's gaze is above all the hustle and bustle of the street, meeting first the statue of columbus, then the treetops and finally the buildings of fifth avenue beyond. we ordered a glass of laurent perrier "grand siecle" mv and had a glance at the menu.

chef thomas keller offers two prix fixe cartes each night...a tasting of vegetables and a chef's tasting menu. the menu changes every day based on the seasonal availability of the ingredients. nominally there are nine courses on each, with very few choices that one is requested to make. drew and i agreed that we would get one of each menu and share, and he made the decisions where they were required. a brief visit from the sommelier was next. we let her know we were interested in a flight of three wines matched to tonight's menu, and that ultimately we were fans of big burgundies and bourdeaux. she nodded her acknowledgment and we were off.

the first amuse bouche to arrive was a pair of miniature cones made from black sesame tuile....one filled with creme fraiche and topped with salmon tartare, the other with tomato confit. presented in their own specially crafted sterling silver stand, they were cool and rich and whimsical all at the same time. then came a couple of gougeres, filled with with warm bechamel and gruyere cheese. just enough food to quiet any hunger pangs while waiting for the kitchen to get revved up. after placing two kinds of butter on the table (salted from california and sweet from france), we were offered breads. we tasted four of the six selections over the course of the evening: pain au lait, similar to brioche; pain complet, a whole grain roll shaped in a ring; a miniature baguette; and a beer bread, made with french ale. at this point, the dishes started rolling out of the kitchen. much to my relief, the portions were quite small. with all the luxury foods involved (there would be caviar, foie gras, lobster and truffles, along with copious amounts of butter, eggs and cream) it would be impossible for either of us to eat more than a couple of bites of each without feeling unwell. here we go......


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"AJO BLANCO"
whipped yogurt, marcona almonds and dill-infused extra virgin olive oil

this was a creamy smooth soup given a bit of texture with ground almonds


"OYSTERS AND PEARLS"
"sabayon" of pearl tapioca with island creek oysters
and sterling white sturgeon caviar

this is one of keller's signature dishes, featuring two tiny, briny oysters
and a perfect quenelle of caviar

REINHOLD HAART KABINETT RIESLING
mosel, 2006

this selection was fairly sweet with lots of perfume and fruit...
an excellent match for the richness of this course and the next.

_____________________________________


TAMARI-SCENTED MAUI PINEAPPLE
yuzu sorbet, shichimi togarashi "brittle,"
daikon radish and petite cilantro

the main attraction here was the pineapple,
which seemed to have been poached in tamari.
the flavor and texture were almost meaty.
the brittle was scented with chiles and orange peel.


"PEACH MELBA"
terrine of hudson valley moulard duck foie gras
marinated frog hollow farm's peaches, peach jelly, red onion,
cilantro shoots, "melba toast" and puffed carolina rice

this was an extremely successful dish.
the richness of the liver was perfectly balanced by the sweetness of the fruit.
textural contrast came from the toasts and from the rice, which was added tableside.

_____________________________________


SALAD OF CALIFORNIA HEIRLOOM TOMATOES
castelvetrano olives, roquette leaves and italian caper salt
with Armando Manni "per mio figlio" extra virgin olive oil 2005

there were red, gold and zebra-striped tomatoes.
this vintage olive oil was like a sauce unto itself,
heightened by the caper salt.
we greedily spooned up every last drop.

CRISPY SKIN FILLET OF BARRAMUNDI
"succotash," sweet corn "pudding"
and red pepper syrup

the star here was the succotash,
which brought together corn, peppers and fava beans
with the smoothest, most luxurious corn pudding imaginable.


FICHET "LES CHEVALIERES"
burgundy, 2005

this was a white with lots of body.
it stood up well to the fish and the tomatoes.
it comes from a very small, private producer.

_____________________________________

LOBSTER MUSHROOM "A LA GRECQUE"
globe artichokes, greenmarket carrots, pearl onions
and garden tarragon with verjus vinaigrette

it was easy to see why these are called lobster mushrooms.
they have a rosy glow to them and the texture is quite similar.
"a la grecque" is a slightly sweet, slightly sour combination.


BUTTER POACHED NOVA SCOTIA LOBSTER
celery branch batons, sweet 100 tomatoes, pickled pearl onions
and young celery leaves with "mosseline choron"

while the lobster was tender and delicious,
we were both amazed by the celery, of all things.
the flavor was bright and clear...wow!

ABIOUNESS STANLY RANCH PINOT NOIR
carneros, california, 2004
half bottle
fruit forward with a touch of acidity
to cut the richness of the lobster and the pork.
the carneros region is known for its pinot noirs.

_____________________________________

HERB ROASTED SUMMER SQUASH
basil "pain perdu," young basil and squash blossom pesto

this was one of our favorite dishes of the night.
the squash blossom pesto was bright yellow, l
ike a streak of mustard across the plate.
the garnish was a tempura of squash blossom that shattered under the fork.
the best part was the pain perdu,
which had an incredible rich texture that exploded with basil flavor.

ALL DAY BRAISED BERKSHIRE PORK BELLY
braised swiss chard, poached brooks cherries,
tokyo turnips and "sauce perigourdine"

after its all day braising, the pork was finished in a saute pan to give it a crispy edge.
the cherries provided some welcome relief to all that richness.

[at this point, we felt the food was coming just a bit too fast.
we asked them to slow things down a bit and they readily complied.]
_____________________________________

MASCARPONE ENRICHED CORN AGNOLOTTI
sweet corn kernels, tokyo turnips
and shaved summer truffles
with corn "pudding"

after placing the plate,
the server pulled out the biggest truffle i have ever seen
(the size of a tennis ball--seriously)
and shaved and shaved and shaved
until the plate was covered in a drift of truffle slices.
the aroma was intense.
here we also saw a much-welcomed return of the summer pudding.
i could have eaten a big bowl of this!

SNAKE RIVER FARM'S "CALOTTE DE BOEUF GRILLEE"
crispy bone marrow, bluefoot mushrooms,
fork crushed red thumb potatoes,
green asparagus and "sauce bordelaise"

this cut is the cap of the rib-eye,
which is my favorite cut of beef to begin with.
it was perfectly cooked and garnished with
an amazing slice of crispy bone marrow.

DOMAINE LES PALLIERES
gigondas, 2004
half bottle

this was clearly the best wine of the evening
(although the others were also excellent).
the sommelier explained that 2003 had been a drought year.
in 2004, the stress from that drought carried over in the vines,
pushing them to produce even better fruit.
it was outstanding.

_____________________________________

CASHEL BLUE
red currant jelly, "quatre epices" shortbread
and purslane with balsamic glaze

this blue cheese was creamy and mild.
the housemade red currant jelly
came nestled alongside in a spoon.

SAINTE-MAURE DU MANOIR
roasted heirloom beets, star ruby grapefruit "supremes,"
bulls blood greens and red beet essence

this cheese, produced in canada,
rivaled any chevre i have had from france.
it was perfectly aged and garnished
with a dusting of red beet powder.

slices of dried cherry baguette and hazelnut baguette

_____________________________________


MANGO SORBET
coconut "nuage," poppyseed "moelleux"
and juniper "gelee"

an intensely flavored break in the meal.
the fruit flavor sang out,
foiled by the little cloud of coconut heaven atop it.

CASSIS SORBET
red currant "gelee," "pain de epices,"
and toasted "meringue"

the intensity of the cassis was even more bracing.
the meringue was brushed onto the plate and then fired.
the toasty marshmallow accent was perfect with the berry flavor.

_____________________________________

"CERISES ET GINGEMBRE"
orange-scented "pain de genes," poached bing cherries,
white chocolate "granite," ginger custard
and brooks cherry ice cream

at this point, both our stomachs
and our memory banks are starting to get full.
the best part of this was the ice cream.


per se "TARTE AU CHOCOLAT NOIR"
caramel "jam," candied pecans, caramelized banana
and banana sherbet

this rectangle of chocolate held a deep, dark flavor,
highlighted by the sweetness of the caramelized banana.
the sherbet alongside was perfumey and rich.

Espresso and Peppermint Tea

_____________________________________

"COFFEE AND DOUGHNUTS"
cappuccino semifreddo with cinnamon sugar doughnuts

a doughnut, topped with a doughnut hole,
served alongside a coffee cup half-filled with a partially frozen cappuccino mousse.
this was topped with foamed milk and sprinkled with cinnamon.
although not on the menu, i had requested it specifically.
another keller signature, this arrived with a candle in it for drew's birthday.
mercifully, no one sang.
_____________________________________


CREME BRULEE
with madagascar vanilla bean seeds
and butter shortbread

just when we thought dessert was over, these arrived.
these little dishes were quite wee...
perhaps 3 inches across, including the handles.
the shortbread were tucked into a little napkin
and plated on the side.

after this point, we cried uncle and pretty much stopped eating.
while everything else was still presented to us at the table,
we had all of it packed to go for our breakfast the next day.
we also had them pack up the last bits of wine left in the two half-bottles.
(and no, we did not drink the wine at breakfast.)

_____________________________________


HOUSE MADE CHOCOLATES
milk and dark in flavors of
pineapple rum, vanilla, green tea,
raspberry, espresso and white chocolate

these were presented on a silver tray,
with the server listing off the flavors.
almost all of my senses had shut down by then,
and the flavor list here is the best reconstruction
we could achieve the next morning as we ate them.
they were picked from the tray using a folded piece of heavy paper,
so that the chocolate would not be tainted by metal tongs touching them (!).


_____________________________________


"MIGNARDISES"
honey nougat with pistachio and almond
fleur de sel caramels
truffles: caramel, milk and coconut

served from a three tiered silver stand that is
custom made for the restaurant

_____________________________________

"MACARONS"
pistachio, raspberry and orange

these were presented with the check,
packed in a cellophane bag tied with per se ribbon

_____________________________________
_____________________________________



all told we were served some TWENTY-FIVE different plates and five wines over the course of four hours. as we left, we asked for a list of the names of the wines. we sat in the salon while we waited. the list was brought to us, along with our two bags of sweets and our bag of wine. it was a lovely little transition before we headed back out into the street. we walked back across central park south, breathing in the fresh air, laughing and stumbling a bit after all that wine! what an incredible experience it had been.

drew and i have been eating together for twenty-four years. we have dined in new york (chanterelle, lutece, restaurant daniel, blue hill, le bernardin, babbo, etc.) as well as london, paris, amsterdam and berlin. between us, we have many other extraordinary dining experiences under our ever-lengthening belts (chez panisse, charlie trotter's and jean-georges, just to name a few). we agreed that this meal, out of all those, was (probably) the best one we have ever had. (i insert that "probably" only because we still need a bit of perspective on it. check back in a couple of months and see if i have removed this qualifier from the review.)

we did not take photos during the meal, but here are some links to other people's pictures, including the food (not necessarily the same as what we ate) and the room. bon appetit!

a lunch set


a dinner set


another dinner set


yet another set


can you stand one more?

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red currants

red currants
Originally uploaded by jasoneats

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gooseberries

gooseberries
Originally uploaded by jasoneats

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tomato blossoms

tomato blossoms
Originally uploaded by jasoneats

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teentsy weentsy cherry tomatoes

teentsy weentsy cherry tomatoes
Originally uploaded by jasoneats

the tomatoes are coming! the tomatoes are coming!

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radishes with dew

radishes with dew
Originally uploaded by jasoneats

i discovered these lovely dewdrops this morning. ain't nature grand?

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chicago pictures

view the pictures here. you may have to copy and paste the url into your browser's address bar.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26884390@N00/sets/72157600194853267/

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four days in chicago

we spent the first four days of may in chicago. the annual company party took us there and we used the opportunity to spend some time withour good friends leslie and pete at their home in portage park. i'll let the pictures tell the tale...

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THE ISLAND PICTURES

tortola
Originally uploaded by jasoneats.

here are the pictures of the islands. we visited st. thomas, usvi; antigua; barbados; st. maarten/st martin; tortola.

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THE SHIP PICTURES

lady liberty
Originally uploaded by jasoneats.

click here to see the shots of the NCL Spirit

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THE FOOD PICTURES

coffee, originally uploaded by jasoneats.

click here to take you to the pictures of the plates from the cruise. these are mostly the dining room shots...only a few are from the buffets. scroll down on this page to see the list of what we ate. enjoy!

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THE LIST

tony and i are back from the cruise....ten days aboard the Norwegian Spirit. we left from new york and visited st. thomas, st. maarten, barbados, antigua and tortola. there will be pictures and descriptions of all of that forthcoming, but first let's talk about the food. after our trip last year, i posted an incomplete list of some of the foods we had eaten. this year, i vowed to keep a better record. despite running out of paper (twice), i think i captured everything we ate on the entire trip. in addition to three seated meals a day in the main dining room (known as Windows), where we were served by the ever gracious dorothy and joenylyn, we also made multiple trips upstairs to the raffles buffet, along with stops in the blue lagoon restaurant, cagney's steakhouse, le bistro, the bier garten, and the garden room. oh, and there were a couple of poolside barbecues. and a cocktail party with hors d'oeuvres. well...you get the idea. in attempt to make it more digestible, as it were, i have grouped things by category. one caveat (if you can believe it)--while everything is included, i have left out the part where we ate items more than once. for instance, one of us had a caesar salad almost every day. and of course we ate bread with every single meal. so the sum total of what we ate is actually significantly greater than what you see here.

bon appetit!

tropical fruit plate
tropical fruit salad
grapes
grapefruit
prunes
oranges
pineapple
watermelon
honeydew
cantaloupe
banana
dried apples

grapefruit juice
orange juice
apple juice
spicy tomato juice
tomato juice
coffee
decaf coffee
milk
cream
espresso
decaf espresso
capuccino
decaf capuccino
peppermint tea

biscuits/sausage gravy
eggs benedict
eggs over easy
scrambled eggs
poached eggs
egg white veggie omelet
ham and cheese omelet
hash browns
raisin french toast
pancakes
waffles
corned beef hash
link sausage
turkey sausage
bacon

shredded wheat
kelloggs complete
product 19
cream of wheat
oatmeal
muesli
raspberry yogurt
peach yogurt

hard rolls
soft rolls
sourdough rolls
black olive rolls
sundried tomato rolls
cheese rolls
wholegrain rolls
seeded rolls
sesame rolls

scones
raisin scones
cinnamon scones
sundried tomato scones
wholegrain scones
breadstick
pretzel
rye bread
baguette
wholegrain baguette
cheese focaccia

croissants
cinnamon rolls
cheese danish
lemon danish
cherry danish
poppyseed danish
custard danish
apple danish
pineapple danish
blueberry danish
peach danish
walnut danish
bagels
bran muffin
blueberry muffin
fruit muffin
white toast
wheat toast
biscuits
butter

chilled banana soup
chilled plantain soup
chilled apple soup
chilled pineapple soup
chilled blueberry soup
chilled strawberry soup
chilled avocado soup w/shrimp
wonton soup
black bean soup
chili cheese soup
hot-n-sour tomato soup
hot-n-sour crab soup
wild mushroom soup in a bread bowl
broccoli cheese soup
watercress veloute w/frogs legs
lobster bisque
clam chowder
thai shrimp bisque
smoked tomato boullion
duck consomme w/wonton

salad bar
asparagus shiitake salad
mixed green salad
mixed greens with truffle vinaigrette
caesar salad
fatoush
greek salad
shrimp mango salad
octopus mussel salad
shrimp mussel salad
octopus salad
asian beef salad
grilled beef salad
corn ham salad
pasta chicken salad
curry chicken salad
greek chicken salad
chicken tuna salad
asian duck salad
black bean salad
salade russe
papaya mango kiwi cocktail
pasta salad
rigatoni w/ tomato
caprese salad
cucumber salad
fennel slaw
coleslaw

steak sandwich
tea sandwiches
giant sub sandwich
beef cheese sandwich
cheeseburger
chicken salad sandwich
turkey sandwich
croque monsieur

foie gras canape
foie gras croutons
spicy snack mix
potato chips

grilled tilapia
grilled salmon
fish and chips
rock lobster tail
lobster custard
lobster scallop martini
seafood cocktail
shrimp cocktail
crispy shrimp spring roll
udon w/prawns and pork
seafood pate
langoustine shrimp pie
linguine w/shrimp
crab dip
crab cakes
cod w/lentils & pancetta
breaded cod

cauliflower curry w/ chutney and raita
vegetable curry
tofu curry
hummus w/pita
eggplant moussaka
eggplant cutlets
eggplant w/peanut sauce
tofu veg strudel
spinach onion strudel
broccoli tofu stirfry
peanut noodle stirfry
singapore rice noodle
fresh spring roll
goat cheese tart
goat cheese panna cotta
macaroni w/cheese
veggie enchilada
stuffed portabello mushroom
sliced tomatoes/cheese
penne w/goat cheese
penne w/cheese & tomato
spinach canneloni
bean burrito
lentil stew

grilled westphalian ham
bavarian sausage
bratwurst
pork saltimbocca
pork medallions
braised pork roast
spare ribs
pork stew
country pate
peppercorn pate

chicken veggie stirfry
chicken parmesan
chicken stuffed w/chevre
garlic chicken
jerk chicken
chicken scallopini
chicken fajitas
chicken enchiladas
chicken w/green curry
chicken ala king
chicken w/olives
pancetta crusted chicken w/cream sauce
potato chip chicken
tandoori chicken
paella
coconut chicken satay
buffalo wings
chicken fingers
flambeed orange duck

lamb white bean canneloni
lamb curry
lamb shank
lamb dolmades
moussaka
shepherd’s pie
rack of lamb
leg of lamb

veal scallopini
roast leg of veal
grilled veal chop
veal spinach canneloni
veal meatloaf

prime rib
steamship round of beef
roast beef sirloin
strip loin
beef wellington
skirt steak w/chimichurri sauce
grilled skirt steak
strip steak
t-bone steak
filet mignon
sirloin steak
beef pepper stirfry
braised short ribs
orange beef w/noodles
beef stroganoff
calves’ liver
beef chicken empanada

broccoli
broccoli cheese strata
broccoli w/almonds
asparagus
snow peas/bok choy
sauteed spinach
creamed spinach
onion strings
roasted root veggies
glazed carrots
roasted pumpkin
peas in white wine sauce
tomato risotto
wild mushroom risotto
white bean ragout
red cabbage
creamed cabbage
tomato stuffed w/veggies
sweet-n-sour vegetables
french beans
pasta primavera
scalloped potatoes
roasted potatoes
gratin potatoes
gratin potatoes w/chevre
loaded potato skins
french fries
mashed potatoes
mashed potatoes with celeriac
roesti potatoes
potato pancakes
lyonnaise potatoes
rice pilaf
jasmine rice
white rice

banana frozen yogurt
berry frozen yogurt
vanilla frozen yogurt
peach frozen yogurt
vanilla ice cream
chocolate ice cream
strawberry ice cream
coffee ice cream
coconut ice cream

bread pudding
strawberry bread pudding
peach bread pudding
peach cobbler
cran apple crunch
mixed berry cobbler
chocolate souffle w/ custard sauce
harlequin souffle w/chocolate sauce
grand marnier souffle w/custard sauce
crepe souffle
chocolate avalanche
chocolate decadence
chocolate éclair
cream puff
chocolate cream puff
crepes suzette
cherries jubilee
bananas foster
chocolate fondue
choclate dipped banana
crème brulee
mocha crème brulee
apple in jacket w/marzipan
macerated berries
berry trifle

lemon custard pie
lemon cream pie
chocolate mousse pie
chocolate cream pie
double chocolate pie
coconut cream pie
boston cream pie
apple tart
apple pie
tarte tatin
pineapple tart
peach baba
peach upside down cake
cheesecake
ny cheesecake w/strawberries
lemon buttermilk cheesecake

lemon mousse
apricot mousse
orange mousse
chocolate mousse
tiramisu
chocolate bavarois
chocolate pots de creme

italian cream cake
banana cake
fudge cake
chocolate moussecake
chocolate cream cake
chocolate nougat cake
chocolate hazelnut cake
chocolate glazed cake
mocha cake
black forest cake
apple nut cake
linzer torte
poundcake
banana bread
oatmeal cookie
chocolate chip cookie
chocolate macaroon
brownie
ande’s mints
buttermint


heineken
belvedere vodka
cristall vodka
screwdriver
rum punch
banana daiquiri
champagne
valley of the moon syrah
st. francis cabernet 2003

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italian harvest tablescape

italian harvest tablescape, originally uploaded by jasoneats.

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an italian harvest dinner

last weekend, tony and i hosted an italian harvest dinner. it was a gray, wet and windy afternoon, so it was perfect for inviting guests into our home and making them feel all warm and cozy. there were 24 of us all told, filling the house with laughter and positive energy. i arranged a cornucopia of squash, apples, pears, tomatoes and indian corn on the table, along with dozens of candles, setting the tone for the evening.

we started with a few simple appetizers set on a three-tiered plate stand on the buffet. there were green olives; oil-cured olives with garlic and rosemary; homemade pickled green cherry tomatoes; black olive tapenade; red pepper spread; artichoke bruschetta; miniature toasts and whole-wheat and sesame breadsticks. at the bar there were italian sodas and bottled water, beer and a huge bottle of amarone della valpolicella. this is an awesome wine, whose mark of distinction is that after picking, the grapes are laid out on straw mats to dry for a period of weeks. this reduces the amount of moisture in the grape, thereby intensifying and enriching the flavor of the finished product. that was soon gone and we moved onto the other half-dozen assorted bottles folks had brought with them.

for the main course, i made two hot dishes. the first was a gargantuan white lasagna. inside were layers of chicken, pesto, ricotta, bechamel and goat cheese, along with oven roasted, home-grown tomatoes. the other was a polenta torta filled with 5 types of wild mushrooms (shiitake, crimini, porcini, maitake and wood ear), marinara and fontina cheese. we had a salad with the very last of the baby lettuces pulled from the garden that morning, dressed with a balsamic vinaigrette. a basket of roasted garlic baguettes completed the meal.

for dessert, i had planned on making tiramisu. as i assembled the groceries for the evening in my shopping cart at the store, i couldn’t help but notice the mountain of cheese i was buying. this dessert would be way too rich after those heavy entrees! i went with plan b, which involved individual dishes of apple crisp. to cover my disappointment at not having the pre-planned dessert, i went ahead and made that as well! i made a big pot of coffee and some peppermint tea and then was finally able to sit down and relax.

it seemed like everyone had a really good time. i know i enjoyed myself thoroughly, despite the hot food not getting done on the schedule i had planned for. of course the guests didn’t notice, so what did it matter? after everyone left, tony and i loaded the dishwasher and organized a few things in the kitchen before heading off to bed. it wasn’t even that late….by having started the festivities at 4 pm, our heads were hitting the pillow at 9 pm!

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